This is My Pilgrimage to Oberammergau

Angela Clarke, Diocesan Senior Growth Enabler, tells the story of her emotional pilgrimage to Oberammergau and the Passion Play:

This is my pilgrimage, my story of going to a Passion Play, something that I had seen in books, talked about with my grandmother, something I had hoped to do with my late mother, to visit the Passion Play at Oberammergau, 40 years of talking and it was finally happening. This was to be combined with visits to other Pilgrimage sites and points of interests.

After a short flight from Heathrow into Munich we arrived at base camp, Bernried am Starnberger- See an area in Bavaria. Our hotel on Lake Starnberg is opposite a former Castle which had also been an Augustinian Monastery since 1121 and from 1949 a Benedictine nunnery. The Klosters Benried homed the Collegiate Church of the Canons Regular and is now the St Martins conference centre, the area is often used as a filming location. The lovely small chapel that is used regularly was beautifully decorated as the previous weekend had been the celebration of the Assumption of Mary with a village parade.

I thought about all the feet that had travelled this route before me and all that will travel after me.

Every morning needed an early start and the 6am bell from the Klosters ensured I didn’t need an alarm clock. It felt good that my pilgrimage days started at the same time as the bell for Morning Prayers.

We next travelled to Andechs Monastery and Church. The Andechs pilgrimage is documented back to the 12th century, it is built on a hill, it can be seen from a distance. It was built originally in the 1100s then restyled in 1755. We walked the last bit in pilgrimage fashion - did I mention it was on a hill, there were steps upon steps.

These steps were well worn. and I thought about all the feet that had travelled this route before me and all that will travel after me. This was a physical challenge for me, and I was quite exhausted by the top, but it was so worth it as the interior is nothing but a feast for the eyes. Beautiful painted ceilings, frescos, gilding, statues, just gorgeous in its Rocco style, a gilded Madonna on the high altar and a wooden mouse immortalised at the foot. The mouse legend hast it, dragged a piece of paper in 1388 which helped Count Rasso find the lost relics, this saved the site from neglect.

There was a talk going on in German and other visitors speaking Italian and Spanish so it wasn’t a quiet Church, however, I was able to find my peace and a chance to reflect on the splendour, the frescos, the clouds above my head, a reflection on the splendour of Heaven. Candles cannot be lit in the main Church due to health and safety rules, but the stone Lady Chapel did allow me to light one for the Diocese of Llandaff.

This chapel was an original stone cave, no windows, it was caked in black candle smoke on the walls, and the candlelight flickered against the dark walls, and in front of a picture of Madonna and child. Sitting there, I wondered how I would feel at the crucifixion scene in the Passion Play in a few days’ time. Leaving the Chapel, I passed a row of Crosses mounted on the wall and I cried - I really hadn’t expected that emotion.

There is a small chapel inside the church dedicated to the memory of Carl Orff, the German composer of Carmina Burana. You might not recognise the name but I’m sure you’d know one of the most famous pieces from it, O Fortuna (or the Old Spice advert for those of you of a “certain” age!). Yes, I had that piece of music stuck in my head all day.

There are now only about 12 monks living at the monastery, but they brew their own beer together with a local workforce of about 200 people. There is a restaurant and biergarten in the grounds which provides an income. Of course, we had to sample the beer - it’s a Benedictine monastery and those steps had certainly made me thirsty! Being refreshed is a part of the pilgrimage both spiritually and physically, and I certainly needed this stop.

On the way back to the hotel we stopped at a very little lake side village called Herrsching. Such a lovely waterfront. We boarded a paddle steamer and sailed from one side of the lake to the other. It was calm and beautiful, and my feet were glad of a rest. The spectacular mountains could be seen in the distance albeit rather hazy from the heat. The area is known as Bavaria’s Holy Mountains, and the calmness of the lake allowed for reflections. I reflected on the day and the cross.

That evening in the hotel, we sat at communal tables with other ‘strangers’ but all here with the same purpose. We began to talk, and despite being different denominations, quickly began sharing stories, photos, our experiences and encouraging each other. Everyone had a story a reason they had felt drawn to this trip, I shared mine which was 40 years in the making. It was again refreshing that this group of ‘strangers’ felt strangely comfortable talking about our spiritual direction and our personal challenges.

The next day after an early start, we travelled further South to Oberammergau, its name synonymous with the Passion Play first performed in 1634.

The tradition of the Passion Play began following a local man who in 1633 brought back the bubonic plague to Oberammergau which resulted in 80 people, half the population, losing their lives. The remaining villagers came together and vowed to perform a play to enact the last week of Jesus’ life as a protection against the plague and in fact it never occurred in the village again. It seems so right for me that after lockdowns and COVID that I am here. I feel as if this journey that was saved for this time for me.

nearly the whole village wanted to serve others and help in telling the joyful story.

The first play was performed in the cemetery where the 80 people were buried near the church of St Peter & St Paul. We parked the coach outside the main town, and we walked in the rain, plastic capes and brollies, to the Church a pilgrimage site, the current building built between 1735 and 1749 in the German Baroque style.

All the Churches that we have visited have been in a fantastic state of repair and restoration - there is a state levied tax on wages that is given to support this. We also have time around the little town, which is very much a pilgrim town, with shops of wood carvers of Icons and Crosses, buildings painted and adorned with biblical screen and crucifixes. I felt comforted being in the town, a sense of completeness having made it.

Our main purpose along with all the other pilgrims was to see the Passion Play, which is performed on a 10-year cycle on the decade years although there have been one or two exceptions - World War 2 being one! This performance should have been in 2020 but was deferred until this year. The actors who take part in the play must have been born in the village or have lived there for at least 20 years. It is very much a family/generational thing and it’s not unusual to have sons, fathers and grandfathers for example, all performing in the same play. It reminded me of my own intergeneration experience influenced by my own grandmother and how, when I return home, I will tell the story to my own Granddaughters.

My fellow pilgrim said, “Music touches my soul like little else”

The cast, musicians and technical staff involved with the play total about 2000 and comprise almost half the population of the village. That along with the hospitality staff, security staff, wardens, it dawned on me that it must be nearly the whole village who wanted to serve others and help in telling the joyful story.

The play runs from the middle of May to the beginning of Oct and it will revert to 10 years again after the next performance in 2030. It currently starts at 1.30pm and runs until 4pm when there is a break and the audience goes back into the village to restaurants or homes which have been opened for the occasion to enjoy a meal. We were hosted with many other pilgrims in the village hall, and our food started with bread and fish enough for all to be fed.

It recommenced at 7pm and finished at 9.45pm although at no part did it feel to long.

It is performed on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday and this must be a massive commitment for this village and its people.

The play is performed fully in German, but I am familiar with the story. For anyone who isn’t, an English script is available. For the 20 or so weeks that the play is performed over half a million people attend and watch, 4,500 at a time in a purpose-built theatre.

No personal photos are allowed to be taken during the performance, as this is an act of worship.

As well as the human actors, also taking part were numerous animals. We saw a donkey (for Jesus’ arrival into Jerusalem), horses (a magnificent black ones), sheep, goats, doves, chickens and camels (yes, really). A lot of young children take part, and one sweet little blonde curly haired cherub was carried onto the stage at the beginning of the performance and was so well-behaved, as were the other children in fact. This made me think of my own grandchildren and how they will find and meet Jesus.

The scenes of the Last Supper, with the familiar words were like a hug to me,

At the start of the performance the choir came on dressed in black pinafore dresses for the ladies and the men in white shirts, black trousers, waistcoats and some had jackets. It was very dramatic, and the music was not in any way uplifting - it was haunting and mournful whilst being totally fitting throughout

My fellow pilgrim said, “Music touches my soul like little else” and once they started singing, I too could not control the tears! Writing this I have realised that I have walked around with red eyes from crying for a lot of this trip.

The scenes are interspersed with tableaux of props (a huge serpent and two tigers at one point) and actors who are placed in static poses while the choir perform. They are scenes from the Old Testament but have relevance to the play. I wasn’t expecting this in a Passion Play.

The view we had was fantastic - two rows from the front. We were able to see the facial expressions so clearly, smell the animals and almost feel a part of the action. It was as if I was a bystander there in the crowd. Many of the audience had shouted ‘Hosanna’ at the start by instinct.

The scenes of the Last Supper, with the familiar words were like a hug to me, whilst the scene at Gethsemane made me feel uncomfortable, even guilty.

The play is quite graphic as it shows the suicide of Judas by hanging, the whipping of Jesus, and of course the crucifixion of Jesus and the two thieves on Calvary.

My emotions that had started early on in the trip were also in overdrive today. Watching the crucifixion my eyes were streaming. The lamb who did it for me, for my sins. So many thoughts were rushing through my head as I watched his breathing suddenly become shallower and ‘stop’. Some of the emotions were so powerful and so personal I just cannot share, and you have to be there to experience this for yourself.

At the end of the performance the play ends with the choir singing and the actors leaving the stage. The choir leaves, the lighting is dimmed, and they do not return for applause. Although a shame to not be given the opportunity to clap for their fantastic performances, it does make the occasion much more poignant. The reason for this, the director states, is that this is for the glory of God and not the glory of performers.

The most moving part for me was after Jesus died on the cross and Mary pleads for his body to be brought down. The way they did this was so tender. It was extremely emotional and in fact is bringing tears to my eyes while I’m typing this. It was done with such beautiful respect for the life He had just given for humanity that I defy anyone to not be moved.

We are Easter people and the final scene is Easter morning. The hope and the conquest were reflected so well as the ‘Angel’ held a burning flame in his bare hands and told us not to be afraid.

Everyone had a story, a reason they had felt drawn to this trip, and I shared mine which was 40 years in the making.

Sharing this journey on an organised trip with some who were strangers was an enlightening experience. Many stories shared, bible verses talked about, different viewpoints exchanged in an Ecumenical way. Our differences and abilities shared with one another, physical testing and spiritually enhancing.

As someone put it, ‘you can read a book about something, you can see a film, but an experience teaches you like nothing else’. I am both exhausted and refreshed.

Did I enjoy it? YES, and I look forward to my next pilgrimage wherever that may be...